04 July 2011

Ango-Bunia-Goma

Democratic Republic of the Congo
Reading the news while flying my plane... awesome.


So, from Ango to Bunia, you need to be an aid worker to fly with Avions Sans Frontiers, so, yeah, not much you can do there. But if you ever make it, I run the best (and only) guesthouse in town! From Bunia to Goma I took CAA, a super sketchy Congolese airline. Rough turbulence, an open cockpit, lots of people puking and a solid 1-second drop (that is a long time when your plane is freefalling) which I can only assume happens when you cross the equator. Sat next to a nice guy who works with one of our partner orgs, so that was cool.


I found the Bungwe Guest House in an online list and their phone number was the first that worked, so, I made a reservation. The hotel manager was great and very flexible picking me up from my 2 hour late flight. He called when he saw that CAA had landed and asked me what I was wearing. I told him I was the only white person on the flight, so that might be the easiest way to spot me, but I was also wearing a red shirt. He took me to the hotel for free, which is rare, and we drove from the volcanic rocky deep red dusty roads into a compound that was clean and so white I was actually comforted to see that it was in the middle of being painted. My room, fittingly enough, was named “Washington”.


My White House
The room was not a room at all; it was basically a suite/bungalow that was clean and insect free (consequently smelling of a cocktail of disinfectant and insecticide). Decent wireless Internet reached from the lobby to my front room with a couch and dining area that looked out onto my balcony. The bed was most likely made out of cardboard, but I have grown tired from sinking into my memory-free-foam mattress in Ango. The hot water got to lukewarm, at best and did not yield anymore pressure than my bucket showers, so that was disappointing.


The food, well, lets just say I ordered the vegetarian pizza and hour later it came with peas, chicken and some sort of thick beef based sauce where the tomato sauce should have been. But breakfast is included. The downstairs TV was blaring upstairs and fighting with the upstairs TV volume, which was tough to sit between.


That said, the service was great, the manager and front desk guy were happy to speak English when I couldn't find the French word. The garden was nice, the staff more than happy to accommodate and it was quiet and clean. Honestly, if you are the not-so-needy type, it is a pretty great place.

Why Not Now?

So, with these every 8 week R&Rs I find myself frequently traveling places that are not exactly easy access areas and are tricky to find a good place to stay, or travel through. 
As I am nearly always traveling by myself and I have ample time on my hands (especially when the internet is slow and I did something wrong when transferring the Security Plan files that I was hoping to work on during my holiday), I might as well write about the places I stay and how I manage to get there. 
Hey, I live and travel in places Lonely Planet strongly discourages visiting, so I might as well inform others who are in my boat, right?  


If you want any further details on hotels, taxi drivers, etc. just let me know and I can give them to you.
I just didn't feel comfortable posting it online, as many of them are personal numbers. 

Of Compassion and Chickens

Mom teaching PipSqueak how to make ginger tarts
for Grammie and Boboo's anniversary, via video Skype.
Last week, 12 eggs in my chicken coop turned into little puffballs on toothpicks that peeped, three turned into messes of cracked eggs and underdeveloped chicks, and one turned into a sweet corn yellow chick with only one working leg - Pip Squeak.

Pip Squeak died yesterday, at the request that our guards kill him quickly before any of us got too attached. For nearly a week we hand fed him, changed the hot water in his bottle every four hours through the night, cuddled him in our hands and it became more and more clear he would never be able to walk and that we could not keep caring for him at that pace.

At one point, holding his little body in my hand, I realized that I felt more for this little chick than I have been lately for the people around me who are, arguably, suffering much more.

Why is that? Is it good? Is it bad? Is it necessary? Is it the beginning of the end? is it a shift in perspective of life and death? Is it all of these things? I do not know. Maybe. I do not know.

A professor of mine used to talk of Compassion Fatigue, a state of being numb in the world a a result of the excess of information available to us at our finger tips. We do not know our neighbors, we dislike it when the news is always bringing us bad news, we eat dinner while watching documentaries on famine... blah blah blah

One human only has so much capacity for compassion. It works out alright when we have about 150 people in our lives (got that number form an NPR report recently), but after that, feeling for people just goes beyond what we've got in us.

What does this mean when when you live with some of the most vulnerable people in one of the most isolated places on the planet?
                             I don't know.
Perhaps, though, one form it can take is that I can come to near tears over a crippled chick when I know we have to kill it because I have to focus on the humans around me, pulling them up, working for them and if the tears do not come as often, perhaps that is for the better, I can do more work and I can let it all out the next time a chick dies, pull myself together and press forward.

Just turning it over and over in my mind and heart, because I really just do not know. 

20 June 2011

How do you eat an elephant? Unknowingly.

Huh, I have never had that before, what kind of meat was it?
Elephant.
What?!? No! No! No! We cannot eat endangered species in our base, ever!
But we didn't kill it!
I know, but if we buy it, we are creating the market for poaching!
But you wanted variety.
Yes, yes, and thank you for that. However, if you ever question if an animal is endangered or not, please please ask me. Dwarf antelope are OK, wild boar OK... but nothing that is rare or illegal to kill. Ever.
Oh my God, I just ate an elephant.

Ango awesome.

11 June 2011

Meet Miss Charlotte

I have been told, "You do good work, like a man." This is the greatest compliment you can get as a woman from a rural Congolese man, and as much as it was nice and validated my ability to manage the base, it reminds me of the disheartened state of women in many developing nations.

At the risk of sounding stereotypically sentimental, I bring you this post. Please enjoy.

I have spent many of my life's hours writing, reading, debating and theorizing development strategies, womens' empowerment, community involvement, grassroots initiatives, signing petitions... blah, blah, blah... you get the picture. Being in Ango is a remarkable culmination of all my ideals fleshed out, tested and challenged.
Here in Ango, I get to actually do what I have talked about for years. 

When we were recruiting staff for Ango's base, most of our technical positions had to be filled by Congolese staff from Bunia, as Ango has few to no skilled workers. The highest education level available here is about the US equivalent of high school, and as much as you can learn without sufficient books, facilities and no electricity. The staff I have from Ango all work as guards and kitchen staff. 

Charlotte is changing that. 

Last month, our kitchen staff was over stretched with a full base to feed and look after, so we took on Charlotte as a temporary worker. Her work cooking, cleaning and moping floors was so good, so detailed and so consistent that it stood out - not only to me, but to the others who stay in the base. 

When I first came to Ango, I knew we had to hire an office assistant. I wanted to wait until I got into the swing of things and our team here gelled a bit before finding someone. I knew I wanted to hire a local young woman who had finished school. You see, if a family here can afford to send a child to school, they will most likely send a son. 

NGOs, such as ours, spend a lot of time telling people to send their daughters to school. Reports have shown that when the mother of the household is educated, her children are healthier (this is for too many reasons to go into here, so just trust me on it for now), however, from the perspective of a population like the one found in Ango, there is no use in educating your girls if they are just going to get married and take care of the family. Educated boys, on the other hand, could get a job and support not only their immediate family, but extended as well. 

So, when I saw Charlotte's work and learned that she had finished school, I knew exactly who our new office assistant would be. I also knew we had a lot of work ahead of us. 

You see, Charlotte has never had electricity in her house, much less touched a computer. 

I had a hard time knowing where to start... 
"This is how you turn it on."
"This is the plug that gives it current to work."
"This is a mouse." - That one got a big smile out of her. 
"This is a desk top."
"These are icons."
"This is google. Do you know what the internet is? No? Have you heard of it? No? OK. That's OK."
"Double click this. Oh, no, you only need to single click that. Why? I actually don't know why."


All things considered, she is doing brilliantly. 

When I asked her if she knew what Medair was doing here, or what we did in general, she answered, "No." Other that being a clear sign we need to work on our community sensitizing, I realized it was time she read our ever-exciting project proposals. 

I asked her thoughts after she read them. She said she thought what Medair was doing was good, that the heath, water, sanitation and hygiene projects were very much needed and that her family lived in the "vulnerable population". It must be strange to read such a report on your home, family, friends and neighbors. To see labels put on you, your way of life analyzed and broken down into NGO jargon...

Charlotte is now a part of the change that is happening in her community. She is now working along side Alphonse, Didier and I in project support with our fingers in every bit of the work that is done here. 

I don't know. This just got me really excited. Seeing her every day in the office (she is actually currently sharing my desk), watching as each day she learns more, noticing that she is already changing the way other locals see her and themselves... it is amazing. I feel so humbled to be a part of it all.

I do not want to change the culture here. I think it is pretty great how it is. I do, though, want to change how women are perceived. That they can give more than children to society, that they can get a good job if they work hard and well, that they can and do work just as well as any man... and sometimes even better.

10 June 2011

Risk Management

Email conversation between myself and the DRC Country Director:


CD - 
HQ is currently reviewing our risk management policy so that it is consistent and clear. Attached is a short policy statement which is being circulated for consultation.
Please can I have your feedback on the statement? Do you agree? What would you change? How could it be improved?

Me - 
I, for one, am more fearful of intentional violence from snakes for which there are no anti-venom and therefore take appropriate risk management headlamp and paranoia with me wherever I go. 

CD - 
OK, we will add paranoia into the briefing pack. Good defensive approach.

07 June 2011

Teeth are Expensive

"Teeth are expensive, they are nearly 20 dollars each to replace!"
My guard tells me as he watches me cut tape with my teeth while installing the HF radio.